How to Shoot Aurora Borealis, the Northern Lights • PhotographingSpace.com (2024)

For a lot of people, getting the opportunity to view the aurora borealis is morethan enough, for some it’s been a life-long dream.

While standing there in the middle of the night with the aurora dancing overhead, you willprobably want to capture the moment forever.A lot of people have tried and been sorely disappointed when the picturesturned out to be nothing but darkness and a dim, green, out of focus glow,when in fact the colorful lights were shining bright and dancing across the sky.I hope this article will help you capture some amazing memories!

Camera

While compact point and shoot cameras have gotten much more advanced inthe last few years, I wouldn’t recommend relying on one for your auroraphotography.If you don’t own a DSLR, try to ask around and see if someone could perhapslend you one.

I personally use a Nikon D800, which is full frame, but you can get amazingshots with way less. What you need is a camera where you can adjusteverything manually. Forget about auto mode and auto focus! If you’ve neverdone night sky photography and always shoot with a pre-set program it mightseem a bit daunting, but I promise you, you’ll get it in no time!

Lens

I mostly use the Nikon AF-S 14-24, f/2.8G ED which is an excellent wide anglelens, the only down side is the price tag. You can find a good lens at a muchlower price if you don’t want to spend too much.

There are a few things you should consider — firstly you’ll want a fast lens (large aperture), f/3.5 or wider.It should be wide angle and as sharp as possible, as the aurora can cover almost the entire skyand you’ll want to get as much of it as possible in your frame.

Filters

If you usually have a filter on your lens (most people use a UV filterforprotection), you’ll want to remove it before shooting the aurora.Don’t use any filters at all, they will mess up your photos!

Tripod

Besides a DSLR, you also need a tripod. Using one is absolutely critical sinceyou will be doing long exposures.

Since we’re talking about the northern lights, you’ll probably be far north and it will mostlikely be autumn or winter when you’re out shooting. In Kiruna, Sweden, where I’m located, the temperature can drop down to below -40Cso you’ll want to get a tripod with foampadding on the legs or put some on yourself. You’ll thank me when you’re out in the extremecold having to touch it!

Cable release

A cable release or a wireless remote can come in handy to prevent camerashake and to do exposures longer than 30 seconds.Personally I never go over 30 seconds, the aurora is usually so bright and fastmoving up here that the highlights will get completely burned out and theentire sky will just look like a green mess. You’ll also start getting startrails and your pictureswon’t look sharp.

I rarely use a remote at all, so how do I avoid camera shake?
Here’s my tip: bring a little piece of cardboard or a plastic lid (not clear or at all transparent),or anything really, big enough to cover the front of your lens.Hold it up in front of the lens as you press the shutter release and then quicklyyank it away once your hand is off the camera. Voila! No shaky photos!

Don’t forget the foreground

So you’re at the location. If you’re lucky the sky above you is on fire!Lights dancing overhead.It’s easy to get completely blown away by the incredible beauty of thisphenomenon but try to quickly scope out the scene.

Look around you, what do you see?Maybe a frozen lake, pretty snow covered trees, or a little cabin.

The foreground is half the picture. I’ve been shooting the northern lights for a few years nowand I’ve seen them every season of my life but I still get incredibly excited on every singleshoot and often forget about the foreground completely for the first few shots.

Raw or JPEG?

I always shoot in raw and I’d suggest you do the same. There is so muchmore information to work with in a rawcopy than a JPEG (which is processedin camera) and if you didn’t get the exposure just right you can bring a lot outafterwards.

Focus

I only got a couple of shots at this location before a moose came plungingthrough the water and scared me half to death.

This was one of the test shots to get the focus right (which it isn’t).I was incredibly disappointed when I came home and reviewed my few shots. It wasincredibly noisy, out of focus and way too dark except for the aurora itselfand it’s reflection.

If I had been shooting in JPEG when I took this picture it would have beenimmediately thrown away. But because I was shooting in rawI could bring outthe dark parts and get rid of the noise. Despite its flaws, this picture wasactually chosen as one of the best astronomy photos of the year 2014 bySwedish astronomy magazine Populär Astronomi.

Autofocus will NOT work in the dark. There are a few different techniques forgetting the focus spot on, I’ll go through them here.
First of all, turning your focus ring to infinity won’t work. I’ve tried a lot oflenses and it hasn’t worked on a single one of them.

Focus in daylight

Find a mountain or something else that’s very far away and auto focus on that,then switch over to manual focus and don’t touch it until it’s time. Or mark thespot with a little piece of tape or with a marker.

Manually focus on the brightest planet or star

Turn on live view and zoom in as muchas possible. Now set the focus so the object is sharp.

My way!

After using a lens for a while you learn how to focus manually, it’s in yourfingers. What I do is turn the focus ring all the way to infinity and then turn itback a tiny little bit. I know, very unscientific and easy to understand, but itworks!

Do this and take a test shot, zoom in on the finished picture to see if it’s infocus, if not, repeat. I do this with every new lens I use and it only takes oneor two tries to learn. Now I never have to look, it’s programmed into myfingers and much quicker than the other methods.

Settings

I’d advise you to turn down the brightness of the LCD screen on the back ofyour camera.The preview you get after taking a picture gives you a good indication ofwhether or not you got a decent exposure.But you should be aware that your picture will look a bit brighter than itactually is and you run the risk of being disappointed when viewing it on a bigscreen.

This is where the histogram comes in handy, it won’t lie.Here’s a helpful link if you’re interested in knowing more: the histogram explained, at LuminousLandscape.com.

Personally, I still go by trial and errorand try different settings throughout the night.

Your settings will depend on whether the aurora is bright or dim, movingrapidly, or behaving more like a stationary glow. Therefore it would beimpossible for me to give you a definitive list of settings that will work everytime but I’ll give you some starting tips.

ISO, shutter speed, and aperture

These are the three things you will need to getfamiliar with.

The aperture is what is called “f” in your camera settings. The smaller the f/number, thelarger theaperture. Simply put, aperture controls the amount of light traveling throughthe lens. For aurora photography, all night sky photographyreally, you’ll want to stay on the large end — the lowest numbers.

Changing the ISO is changing your camera’s sensitivity to light, the higher yougo the more sensitive your sensor will be. When shooting the aurora you’llneed your camera to be very sensitive and gather as much light as possible.

ISO, aperture, and shutter speed are really the three pillars of photography,understanding how they work together is very valuable, you could even say it’sabsolutely necessary.

Where to start

So we now know to use a low f/stop (usually f/2.8-4for me) and I’ve saidwe need the sensor to be very sensitive to light. This does NOT, however, meanthat you should set your camera to the highest ISO setting possible.Newer DSLRs go up to over ISO 12,000, in comparison you only need ISO 100-200fordaylight shots.

If you’re in a place where the aurora is bright and moving across the sky, not just a dim lineon the horizon, I’d suggest you start out with these settings:

Shoot in raw
Autowhite balance
f/2.8-f/3.5
ISO800
15second exposure

You will most likely need to adjust these settings as you go. If the aurora is moving rapidlyyou’ll want to capture the rifts and shapes and therefore you’ll want to keep the exposure asshort as possible. So why not push the ISO up to it’s absolute maximum and just fire away?

That’s when the massive downside to high ISO comes in —noise!DSLRs today typically do very well with noise even at pretty high ISO, but when you go above ISO 800 you will definitely start seeing noise and when yougo higher still it will become very apparent. Processing software does a good job at gettingrid of it and I sometimes do wide-field astrophotography at ISO up to 3200 or so but I reallyprefer staying lower.

I talked about shooting in rawformat before and this is a situation whereyou’ll be so glad you did. Trying to reduce noise in a JPEG in post processing is horrible.If you do shoot in JPEG only you’ll want to turn on high ISO noise reductionand long exposure noise reduction before your shoot.

When, on the other hand, the aurora is only giving you a modest display you get the perfectopportunity to capture it with the Milky Way shining in the same frame. This is the only time Igo as high as a 30 sec exposure.

Processing

If you follow my advice and shoot in rawyou’ll need software able to processthose files. I prefer Adobe Lightroom but there are free alternatives.

If you’re shooting with a Nikon there is a program called Capture NXD,download here.
For Canon users:http://www.canoneurope.com/support/camera_software/
Of course, Google has their own version called Picasa:http://picasa.google.com

With these programmes you’ll be able to adjust the white balance, reducenoise, brighten up the foreground, and much more.

Out of these three alternatives to Lightroom I’ve only briefly tried Nikon’ssoftware, so I can’t say much about how well they work, but they are free.

What I always do to my photos in post is reduce the noise, lift the shadows a bit, as well as lifting the whites. Sometimes after shooting a super bright display I reduce the highlights since theyget blown out. It happens that the auto white balance doesn’t quite get it right, the aurora canappear a bit yellow or the landscape is suddenly green like the sky. I like my finishedpictures to look as much as what I actually saw as possible so I’ll adjust this in postprocessing. I also sharpen my pictures a bit and adjust the contrast.

Now you know about the key settings, it’s time to start practicing!

I told you in the beginning to forget about auto mode and I stick by that. Thereis however a great use for it while you’re practicing.

Put your camera in automode and take a few shots in different lighting conditions and observe how thesettings change. Doing this was a great help to me when I first started out.I knew absolutely nothing about manual settings and it all seemed verydaunting to me, but I love to learn!

After studying how the settings changed depending on the scene, thingsstarted making perfect sense to me.I never thought of looking for a guide like this because my favorite method oflearning is by trial and failure.That’s exactly what I’m encouraging you to do after reading this guide!Get to know your camera, before you know it you won’t even have to thinkbefore turning those dials.

Go out at night and practice shooting the night sky, see if you can get the starsin focus, if you’re in a light pollution free zone maybe you’ll manage to get ashot of the Milky Way.

Fair warning though — once you’ve started doing this you’ll be hooked!

You canviewmy gallery at www.angrytheinch.com,followme on Twitter, oron Instagram,likemy Facebook page if you’d like to see aurora pictures on your news feed!Feel free to get in touch on either of those sites, I’d love to see your photos!

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