Seasonal Recipes
By Caleb Barber Globe Correspondent,January 15, 2018, 10:00 p.m.
Rule-benders’ pork ramen
Sally Pasley Vargas for The Boston Globe
Serves 4
Here’s how to approach ramen for rule-benders, using a divide-and-conquer attitude. The key is the broth, and it doesn’t require a lot of work, just forethought and simmering time. Make it in advance, get toppings and noodles ready to go, and you’re there. Pork bones are best for this ramen broth, though you may need to call your market and have bones put aside for you. Some cooks blanch bones first to clean them, but if you skim thoroughly during the first couple hours of simmering, that should be adequate. And the more bones and broth, the better. You’re looking for a silky, protein-rich bowl. Ideally, at room temperature, the broth will jell on its own, at least to some degree. If you want pork in your ramen, and don’t have leftovers from a roast, use thin slices of pork tenderloin cooked in a sweet-savory sauce. Freeze it for 20 minutes and it will slice easily. What about noodles, you say? Pull them from an instant ramen package (this is rule-benders’ ramen, after all) or Asian noodles labeled “ramen” or vermicelli rice sticks. Add them to each bowl before building with broth and vegetables.
BROTH
| 4 | pounds pork bones, or a combination of pork and chicken bones |
|---|---|
| 2 | gallons cold water, or more if needed |
| 1 | medium onion, quartered, or green tops of several leeks |
| 1 | medium carrot, quartered |
| Salt, to taste |
1. In a soup pot, combine the bones, water, onion or leeks, carrot, and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and let the mixture simmer for at least 4 hours, skimming scum on the surface every 30 minutes during the first 2 hours. Top up the water, as needed. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt, if you like.
2. Let the broth cool in the pot. Use a slotted spoon to remove the bones; discard them. Strain the soup into a large container or another pot. Refrigerate overnight, or for up to 7 days. Discard the fat on the surface.
PORK
| 3 | tablespoons Asian sesame oil |
|---|---|
| ¾ | pound pork tenderloin, sliced ⅛-inch thick |
| 2 | tablespoons honey or brown sugar |
| 1 | tablespoon soy sauce |
| 2 | tablespoons rice vinegar or cider vinegar |
1. In a skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil. Cook the meat in batches, 1 minute on a side. Transfer to a bowl.
2. Remove the pan from the heat and turn the heat to low. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons sesame oil to the skillet with the honey or brown sugar, soy sauce, and vinegar. Return to the heat and bring to a boil, stirring. Simmer for 4 minutes, or until it thickens into a sauce.
3. Return the pork to the pan with any juices in the bowl. Turn the meat in the sauce for 2 minutes, or until it is coated all over. Remove from the heat.
RAMEN AND GARNISHES
| 4 | eggs |
|---|---|
| 1 | medium onion, cut into 1-inch cubes, or 4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces |
| 1 | carrot, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced |
| 5 | cabbage leaves, cut into 1-inch pieces |
| 1 | clove garlic, crushed and finely chopped |
| 1 | piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, finely grated |
| 12 | ounces ramen noodles or rice vermicelli |
| Soy sauce (for serving) | |
| Sriracha or other hot sauce (for serving) | |
| Handful fresh cilantro, leaves removed from stems (for serving) |
1. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the eggs and simmer for 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl of cold water, use a spoon to tap the shells to crack them, and peel the shells. Pat the eggs dry; cut each in half.
2. Meanwhile, in a soup pot, combine the broth, onion or scallions, carrot, cabbage, garlic, and ginger. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are just tender.
3. Refill the saucepan with water and bring to a boil. Add the noodles and cook for 3 minutes, or according to package instructions, until they are tender; drain.
4. Divide the noodles among 4 large bowls. Ladle the broth and vegetables into the bowls and add pork and eggs. Serve with soy sauce, hot sauce, and cilantro leaves, with chopsticks and soup spoons. Caleb Barber
Caleb Barber can be reached at calebjoffice13@gmail.com.
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